LIGHTING

​Finding lights that will shine brightly through the night is no longer the challenge it once was. Today’s lights are often extremely bright, and the real concern for riders is avoiding dazzling other road users. Unfortunately, legal compliance can still be tricky—many of the best-performing lights on the market don’t actually meet national regulations. To stay within the law, you’ll need to fit both front and rear lights from the relatively small pool of approved options.
For the rear, a well-mounted, multi-LED battery light in constant (non-flashing) mode is usually the most effective choice. Correct mounting means it should be fixed securely to the frame or rack, not blocked by luggage or clothing, and aimed directly backward, level with the road. These lights are generally dependable, offer runtimes lasting days, are clearly visible at a distance, and won’t blind other riders behind you.
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If you choose to use a flashing rear light, be aware that you may need to ride alone.
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At the front, a comparable type of light helps with visibility to oncoming traffic. However, because many randonnées include long stretches on unlit roads, night riders also need a beam light with extended runtime. Modern LEDs can be extremely powerful, so careful positioning is vital to avoid dazzling others. For this reason, it's often recommended to run a separate light purely for visibility in addition to your beam.
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Reflective ankle bands and strategically placed reflective tape on your bike frame are also simple but effective additions to any lighting setup.
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Since most modern lights—regardless of price—are bright enough for night use, the real priorities become reliability, runtime, and ease of use (especially if you’re dealing with small buttons and thick gloves). Reliability and battery life are both improved when you carry two lights instead of one. Many current models are compact and don’t take up much space on your handlebars, so it’s worth considering two mid-range lights instead of a single expensive one.
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Most lights now come with adjustable brightness settings. On lit roads or when climbing, you can usually dial down the brightness, which helps conserve battery life. If your rides are limited to 200km or the occasional summer 300, a lightweight, inexpensive setup will likely meet your needs. Commuter-style rechargeable lights, though pricier, can also be ideal. Even on a midsummer 600, with some lighting from the road, time spent at controls, and a bit of twilight, your primary light might only need to run for four hours or so.
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Spring, late summer, and autumn rides present a different challenge. Events like Paris-Brest-Paris, which include long, dark stretches of unlit rural roads, may require over 20 hours of lighting—something that still tests even modern lighting technology.
For riders tackling longer events or venturing out of season, generator lights are a popular choice. Hub dynamos are especially well-regarded: they’re bright enough, ultra-reliable, always available, and offer unlimited runtime. It’s still smart to carry a small torch for roadside fixes or as an emergency backup.
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Battery-powered front lights tend to be more flexible and affordable. They’re easy to swap between bikes and you only need to carry the lighting you'll realistically use. Just ensure they have enough runtime, are weather-resistant, and offer good brightness without causing glare.
Rechargeables are popular among commuters and year-round riders. However, for multi-night epics like PBP, rechargeable-only setups can be problematic—hence the popularity of dynamo lighting. At least one of your lights should be able to run on standard disposable batteries available along the route. Lights with separate battery packs offer flexibility—standard packs can be swapped for a makeshift clip of primary cells. However, the quality and beam pattern of these two-piece setups can vary greatly, from budget-friendly options to high-end gear. Even the cheaper models often provide ample brightness and runtime—until rain becomes a factor. Many cheaper lights have overly wide beams suited more to off-road use, but those with focused ‘spot’ beams can be excellent—if you're okay with the bulk of an external battery.
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Helmet or head-mounted lights can be a helpful addition to your setup, but in humid conditions (common on longer rides) they often reflect light back into your eyes and become a hindrance. A small finger-light may be more practical for reading route sheets, spotting signage, or finding things in your bag.
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Anyone serious about night riding should always carry spares for both front and rear lights. Rear light reliability is generally good, but water ingress is the main vulnerability—something a bit of PVC tape over the weak spots can often fix. Front lights, on the other hand, tend to run hot and can’t be taped the same way, which can make them less dependable in the rain—another reason to carry a front backup.
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